Painting, caulking, wallpaper repair and re-grouting  ceramic tile:

Know what you want to paint before you get started. Don't bite off more than you can chew. You don't want to get into a major painting project to find out that it's more then what you wanted to handle. If this is the case you may want to hire it out to a contractor. Painting the first floor exterior trim may be easy, but painting the second floor exterior trim from a ladder may be a nightmare. It's important that you know your limits.

Preparing the surface to be painted is the most important part of any painting project. Whether it is the interior walls or exterior trim the surface has to be ready to paint or stain. Latex paints today have become well accepted and are used for exterior and interior use. The debate over alkyd paints (oil base) versus latex comes down to more of personal preference. Alkyd paints are less likely to clog a sprayer gun and when used on interior trim dry slower for a more level look (less brush strokes will show). There is a general agreement that acrylic latex outdoor paints will outlast a good alkyd paint. Due to the ease of clean up, my preference is latex paints. Once you have determined the style of paint and color, you should do a sample test. This is where you paint a board or section of the house and let it dry to see if this is the color you really like. It's best to do this now! Don't paint all the exterior trim or living room and then realize later that you don't like the color. When you are purchasing paints, brushes and paint rollers you definitely get what you pay for. Better brushes will be more feathery and will apply paint better. Better quality paints will apply better and last longer.

Exterior painting: Tools and Materials: Ladder: (step ladder or extension ladder), latex gloves, wear old clothes and hat, paint brushes, paint rollers and roller pan, putty knife or scraper, sand paper, sanding block, wire brush, primer, paint, painter's tape, drop cloths and TSP Tri-sodium phosphate* all purpose cleaner.

First scrap peeling paint in the area you are going to paint. You can use a scraper, sand paper and / or wire brush. Once you have finished preparing the surface then wash the area with a mixture of TSP and water. If you find that there is now exposed wood or metal after you have prepared the surface you should first prime the area. Primers are used prior to painting with a finished coat. Use the right primer. There are alkyd primers and latex primers for exterior use. Ask your hardware paint professional for the best primer for your particular use. Before you prime or paint make sure to lay down drop cloths.

Interior painting: Tools and materials: Step ladder, latex gloves, wear old clothes and a hat, paint brushes, paint rollers and roller pan, putty knife, Acrylic latex spackling compound, fine sand paper, primers (including stain kill primer), latex paint, painter's tape, drop cloths and TSP Tri-sodium phosphate*

First determine what rooms you want to paint. Take into consideration that you may have to move furniture. Prepare the walls by washing them with a TSP and water mixture. You should do minor repairs to nail holes, picture frame hook holes and etc. Use a acrylic latex spackling compound. Using a putty knife fill the holes, let dry, then lightly sand with fine sand paper until area is smooth and level. Newly installed walls and trim should be primed before painting. New drywall not painted before should not be washed with TSP. Once you have determine the style of paint and color, you should do a sample test. This is where you paint a board or section of the house and let it dry to see if this is the color you really like. It's best to do this now. Before you prime or paint make sure to lay down drop cloths. Painting the walls and ceilings are best done using a roller and roller pan. Most trim can be painted using a 1, 1 1/2 or 2 inch paint brush. Make sure you know what paint you are using glossy, Semigloss, eggshell or flat. Below I have broke them down and their common use.

If the kids have used an ink pen, finger paints or crayons to mark the walls you will need to do a special wall prep before painting. Just painting over these areas will not stop the marks from eventually bleeding back through the new paint. On these locations apply a stain kill primer. Stain kill primer will not allow the marks to bleed through a painted finished coat. Stain kill primers come either as latex-base primers or alcohol-shellac based primers. I have found that shellac based primers work the best.

Gloss and semigloss paints: Whether high or low gloss these paints are mostly used in kitchens and bathrooms.

Eggshell or satin paints: These paints have an eggshell texture and are used in just about every room of the house except the kitchen.

Flat paints: These paints have a dull or matte finish and are used mostly in living rooms, dining rooms, hallways and bedrooms.

Mildew problems and painting: Kitchen and Bathrooms Tools and Materials: Step ladder, latex gloves, wear old clothes and a hat, paint brushes, paint rollers and roller pan, putty knife, primers, paint, painter’s tape, drop cloths and TSP Tri-sodium phosphate* and chlorine bleach.

If you’re experiencing mildew problems is the kitchen or bath and want to paint these rooms you will need to first prepare these surfaces. Painting over mildew will only allow that mildew to bleed through at a later date. Take 1 cup of TSP* and 1 cup of household chlorine bleach and mix it in a gallon of water. Take this solution and scrub all surfaces to be painted. You may need to apply primer before painting. *Note: Tri-sodium Phosphate (TSP) is an effective all purpose cleaner. Some States do not allow its use due to its high phosphate content. There are very similar phosphate free cleaners on the market that will also do an effective job. Caulking the House Exterior: It’s important to know that where two different materials meet (i.e.: brick to aluminum, or wood to vinyl) caulking will shrink and / or crack. These materials have different surface temperatures from each other and will expand and contract in cold or direct sunlight at different rates. This expanding and contracting causes the caulk to shrink and crack over time. Believe it or not the hardest part of an exterior caulking project is choosing the right caulk. Most of the caulks manufactured today are quite good, but usually your more expensive caulks are of better quality. You will be bombarded with racks of caulks. There are caulks and sealants for everything from windows to roof repairs. They will come in 11 - ounce cartridges to fit your caulking gun. Make sure you read the caulk tub in the store before you leave. Determine if it is a paintable caulk. 100% silicone caulk cannot be painted. A good all around caulk is acrylic latex with silicone. This is the best of both worlds -- the paintability of a latex and elasticity and protection of a silicone. The hardware personnel should be able to help you with the proper selection. Caulks also come in different colors such as white, gray or brown.

Tools and Materials: Ladder: (step ladder or extension ladder), latex gloves, wear old clothes, old rags, caulk gun, utility knife, putty knife, exterior caulk (Acrylic Latex plus Silicone, 10.3 fl. oz. cartridge). Examine the condition of present caulking.

Remove any loose caulk and clean the area. You may need to use a putty knife, utility knife or other cutting tool to remove old caulking. Take a 10.3 fl. oz. caulk cartridge and place it in the caulk gun. Using you utility knife cut the tip on an angle. Some caulk manufacturers all ready have designated marks or lines on the tip where to cut. Now run a bead of caulk as a test in one small area. Get the feel of how hard to squeeze the trigger on the caulk gun to get a constant flow of caulk. Further move the caulk gun at a constant speed as you apply the caulk. Jerky stop and go movements will give you a lumpy and messy look. Caulk bead should be at approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch diameter. You can also use the rounded bottom of a plastic spoon to smooth out any lumpy areas. Use a rag to clean up any excise before it dries. Don’t forget to inspect and caulk these areas: * Outside window frames, storm windows and sills * Exterior door frames * Where siding meets brick and windows

Caulking and sealing kitchen and bathrooms: Tools and Materials: Latex gloves, wear old clothes, caulk gun, utility knife, bleach and water or instant mildew stain remover (there are different brands on the market), sealant (sink and tub caulk such as kitchen and bath Silicone Sealant). Instant mildew stain remover in a spray bottle and kitchen and bath Silicone Sealants in a caulk tube, can be purchased at a hardware.

Over time caulk around tubs, sinks and counter tops beings to peel, crack and mildew. Mildew seems to be the biggest problem. If you caulk directly over this mildew it will bleed through at a later date. You will need to remove the old caulk. Use a utility knife to cut away the old caulk. Be careful not to cut wallpaper, drywall or you. If you notice that the mildew is within or underneath the caulk you will need to remove all the caulk down to the surface. Once removed you will then need to clean the area before reapplying new sealant. Spray a mixture of bleach and water or an instant mildew stain remover on the areas that you will be recaulking. Make sure to either open a window or turn on the bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan. Mildew stain removers can be quite pungent to the eyes and nose. After 5 to 10 minutes rinse bleach mixture or mildew stain remover off. You will notice that the dark and blackened mildew stained areas have disappear. Allow these areas to thoroughly dry before applying caulk. Now run a bead of caulk as a test in one small area. Get the feel of how hard to squeeze the trigger on the caulk gun to get a constant flow of caulk. Further, move the caulk gun at a constant speed as you apply the caulk. Jerky stop and go movements will give you a lumpy and messy look. You can also use the rounded bottom of a plastic spoon or a popsicle stick to smooth out any lumpy areas. Your bead of caulk should be approximately 1/4 inch wide.

Wallpaper repair: Tools and Materials: bucket of warm water, 1/2 inch transparent tape, straight pin, wallpaper seam repair (usually comes in a tube). You can find this product at the hardware or wallpaper stores.

It’s a good idea to periodically check your wallpaper. Especially in high humidity areas such as the kitchen and bath. Over time the corners of wallpaper may start coming away from the wall. This can easily be repaired using a wallpaper seam repair. The problem in using household glues is that it may bleed through paper wallpaper. Plus, there may be some difficulty removing the wallpaper in the future when remodeling. Make sure to wipe off excess adhesive with a damp sponge. If vinyl or foil wallpaper, tape area down while it dries using 1/2 inch transparent tape. If the wallpaper is a paper wallpaper, stick a pin in one corner. This will hold down the area while it is drying.

Re-grouting ceramic tile: Tools and Materials: Rubber gloves, bucket of warm water and cloth, sponge, utility knife, small flat head screw driver, pre-mixed tile grout, Grout sealer with silicone. You can purchase pre-mixed tile grout (acrylic latex grouting compound) at most hardware’s. Grout sealer with silicone can be purchased in a applicator bottle at most hardware’s.

Over time the grout may become loose and come out off joints between the ceramic tiles on shower floors, shower walls, bathtub walls and etc. These areas will need to be repaired. You first need to remove any old or loose and crumbling grout. Use a utility knife or small flat head screw driver. Be very careful not to dislodge or chip any ceramic tiles. Once you have removed any loose grout wipe these areas clean. In a spray bottle use a mixture of either bleach and water or instant mildew stain remover. Spray these areas. This will kill and remove the mildew growth. Now rinse these areas and allow it to dry. You may want to place a fan in the shower or tub to speed up the drying time. Once dry, while wearing your rubber gloves, apply the pre-mixed grout to the joints either by hand or with a damp cloth. Fill all the joints while whipping up any excess. At this point there should be only a light film left on the tiles. All the grout areas should be filled with grout. Allow the grout to dry for about 15 minutes then using a damp cloth or damp sponge wipe off the haze on the ceramic tiles. You may have to carefully scrub some areas. Don’t use too much water or you may wash out the grout from the newly filled joints. Rinse the sponge and wring it out after each passing. It will take about two days for the grout to totally dry or cure. Do not apply any grout sealer for at least 3 days. Pre-mixed tile grout usually only comes in white. If you need a specific color grout you may need to buy the power grout mix. It will need to be mixed with water. Periodically you should apply grout sealer to the ceramic grout on shower floors and walls or other areas that have constant exposure to water. This sealer has silicone which will seal the grout and reduce damage from water. You can purchase the sealer in applicator bottles. Only apply the sealer when the ceramic and grout is totally dry from all water. This means you will have to use another bathroom to bathe or shower during this time.